Why go
Seven million people on a strip of reclaimed harbour front, backed by hills that turn to jungle within one MTR stop. Hong Kong reads as a finance capital from the water and as a dense, delicious, deeply local place the moment you walk two streets inland.
Five things to do
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01
Star Ferry crossing at dusk
A few dollars for the best skyline seat in Asia.
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02
Dragon's Back ridge walk
Two hours of coastline above Shek O.
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03
Dim sum from the trolleys
Shared tables, no ceremony, tea topped up constantly.
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04
Man Mo Temple
Incense coils that burn for weeks at a time.
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05
Cheung Chau by ferry
Bicycles, seafood and a bun festival every May.
Neighbourhoods
Central & Sheung Wan
Antique streets, the Mid-Levels escalator and the best of the coffee scene.
Sham Shui Po
Fabric markets, electronics arcades and Michelin-listed noodles for the price of a coffee.
Tai Kwun
A former police compound turned art and heritage quarter.
Sai Kung
Fishing town and gateway to the Geopark's sea arches.
Getting around
Buy the transport card on arrival — every city on this list has one, and it is cheaper than single fares within about four journeys. Walking covers more than the map suggests: most of the districts above are within thirty minutes of each other on foot.
Taxis and ride apps are worth it late at night and when you are carrying luggage. Everything else is faster on the metro, the tram or the ferry, in that order.
Where to eat
The rule that holds in Hong Kong is the rule that holds everywhere: eat at the busy place, at the hour the locals eat, and order the thing the kitchen makes most of. Reserve for dinner in the districts above; lunch rarely needs it.
Two days here
- Morning: Star Ferry crossing at dusk
- Afternoon: walk Central & Sheung Wan
- Evening: Dim sum from the trolleys
- Day two: Cheung Chau by ferry
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