Why go
CDMX is built on a drained lake, which is why it sinks unevenly and why the historic centre tilts. It is also enormous, green, walkable in patches, and — since Roma and Condesa became design districts — one of the world's most enjoyable food cities.
Five things to do
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01
Templo Mayor
Aztec foundations beside the cathedral.
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02
Museo Nacional de Antropología
Allow half a day, minimum.
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03
Tacos al pastor after midnight
The vertical spit is the point.
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04
A lucha libre night
Arena México, Friday.
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05
Teotihuacán at opening
An hour out, before the heat.
Neighbourhoods
Roma & Condesa
Art deco, tree-lined, café-dense.
Centro Histórico
Templo Mayor, the cathedral, old cantinas.
Coyoacán
Frida Kahlo's blue house and a cobbled village core.
Xochimilco
Canals and chinampa farming, a survival of the lake city.
Getting around
Buy the transport card on arrival — every city on this list has one, and it is cheaper than single fares within about four journeys. Walking covers more than the map suggests: most of the districts above are within thirty minutes of each other on foot.
Taxis and ride apps are worth it late at night and when you are carrying luggage. Everything else is faster on the metro, the tram or the ferry, in that order.
Where to eat
The rule that holds in Mexico City is the rule that holds everywhere: eat at the busy place, at the hour the locals eat, and order the thing the kitchen makes most of. Reserve for dinner in the districts above; lunch rarely needs it.
Two days here
- Morning: Templo Mayor
- Afternoon: walk Roma & Condesa
- Evening: Tacos al pastor after midnight
- Day two: Teotihuacán at opening
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